Edinburgh with Kids: Why Home Exchange is the Perfect Family Travel Hack

My daughter was three years old when she announced, mid-tantrum in a cramped hotel room in London, that she "needed her own bed." We were six days into a two-week UK trip, and I was ready to fly home. The minibar she'd somehow opened. The crib wedged between the wall and the bathroom door. The £180 per night we were hemorrhaging for the privilege of nobody sleeping.

That trip broke something in me—but it also fixed something. Because three months later, we did Edinburgh with kids completely differently, and it changed how our family travels forever.

A cozy Edinburgh flat living room with toys scattered on a wool rug, large sash windows overlooking

Home exchange in Edinburgh with kids isn't just a budget hack (though saving $3,000+ on a two-week trip doesn't hurt). It's a fundamentally different way to experience Scotland's capital with your family—one where your toddler has a bedroom door that closes, your teenager has WiFi that actually works, and you have a kitchen for those inevitable 6 PM meltdowns when nobody can face another restaurant.

I've done Edinburgh three times now with my kids, twice through home swaps. Here's everything I've learned about why this city and this travel style are basically made for each other.

Why Edinburgh with Kids Demands More Than a Hotel Room

Here's what nobody tells you about traveling to Edinburgh with children: this city will exhaust them in the best possible way. Between climbing the 287 steps to Edinburgh Castle, scrambling up Arthur's Seat, and running through the endless corridors of the National Museum of Scotland (free, by the way—more on that later), your kids will be physically spent by 4 PM.

And that's exactly when hotel rooms become torture chambers.

I remember our first Edinburgh trip, pre-home-exchange enlightenment. We'd booked a "family room" at a well-reviewed hotel near Princes Street. Two double beds, a bathroom, and roughly four square feet of floor space. By day three, my then-five-year-old and seven-year-old were climbing the walls—literally, at one point.

The breaking point? We couldn't do an early dinner (kids were starving by 5 PM), couldn't cook anything ourselves, and couldn't let the kids decompress anywhere except those two beds. We ended up eating room service fish fingers for £28 while watching Peppa Pig on an iPad propped against a lamp.

Contrast that with our first home exchange in Edinburgh: a three-bedroom Victorian flat in Stockbridge with a garden. A garden! In central Edinburgh! The kids had their own rooms. I made pasta at 5:30 PM while they watched British children's TV (Bluey hits different in the UK, trust me). After dinner, they played outside while my husband and I sat on the steps with wine.

Same city. Completely different trip.

Children playing in a small walled garden behind a Georgian townhouse in Edinburgh, string lights ov

The Economics of Family Home Exchange in Edinburgh

Let me be brutally honest about Edinburgh accommodation costs, because I think a lot of families don't realize how expensive this city is.

For a family of four needing two bedrooms (or at minimum, a family suite), you're looking at budget hotels running £150-200/night ($190-255 USD), often with breakfast not included. Mid-range hotels with family rooms jump to £220-300/night ($280-380 USD). Vacation rentals hover around £180-350/night ($230-445 USD), plus cleaning fees of £75-150. And Airbnbs in central locations? Often £250+/night ($320+ USD) during peak season.

For a two-week trip during summer or festival season, you're easily spending $4,000-6,000 just on accommodation. Add in eating out for every meal because you don't have a kitchen, and you're hemorrhaging money.

Home exchange through a platform like SwappaHome works on a credit system—one credit equals one night, regardless of the property size or location. New members start with 10 free credits. So theoretically, your first 10-night Edinburgh family trip could cost you nothing for accommodation.

I did the math on our last Edinburgh home exchange: 12 nights in a four-bedroom house in Morningside, walking distance to the Meadows (Edinburgh's best family park, fight me). Equivalent rental would have been around £280/night. We saved approximately $4,300.

That's money that went toward Edinburgh Zoo (£26.50 per adult, £17.50 per child—not cheap), the Edinburgh Dungeon for my horror-loving tween, and an absolutely excessive amount of fish and chips from the Fishmarket on Henderson Street.

Best Edinburgh Neighborhoods for Home Exchange with Kids

Not all Edinburgh neighborhoods are created equal when you're traveling with children. After three trips and countless conversations with other home-exchanging families, here's my honest assessment.

Stockbridge: The Sweet Spot for Families

This is where we stayed on our first home exchange, and I'm still not over it. Stockbridge is a village within the city—cobblestone streets, independent shops, a Sunday farmers market that my kids still talk about (the fudge vendor, specifically). It's a 15-minute walk to Princes Street but feels worlds away from tourist chaos.

For families, the killer feature is the Water of Leith walkway, which runs right through the neighborhood. You can walk along the river to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (free, with outdoor sculptures kids can climb on) or in the other direction to the Royal Botanic Garden (also free, with a massive lawn for running).

Home exchange properties here tend to be Georgian flats with high ceilings and those gorgeous original fireplaces. Many have small gardens or access to shared garden squares.

The Sunday Stockbridge Market with families browsing stalls, a child reaching for samples at a chees

Morningside: Suburban Charm, City Access

If Stockbridge is Edinburgh's Brooklyn, Morningside is its Park Slope—leafy, family-oriented, slightly smug about its excellent schools and organic grocery stores. I mean this affectionately; we stayed here on our most recent trip and loved it.

The Meadows, a massive public park, is right there. During our stay, my kids made friends with local children at the playground within hours. There's something about having a "regular" park to go to—a place where your kids can just be kids, not tourists—that transforms a trip.

Morningside is about 25 minutes by bus to the Old Town, or a pleasant 40-minute walk through the Meadows and past the University. Home exchange properties here are often larger—actual houses with gardens, converted into flats with multiple bedrooms.

Old Town: Magical but Intense

I'll be real: I wouldn't do a home exchange in the Old Town with kids under 7. Cobblestones everywhere (stroller nightmare), steep hills (tiny leg nightmare), and during Festival season, absolutely rammed with people.

But for older kids? There's something magical about staying in a flat on the Royal Mile, waking up to the sound of bagpipes, and being able to walk to Edinburgh Castle before the crowds arrive. If you find a home exchange in the Old Town, grab it—just know what you're signing up for.

Leith: The Underrated Option

Edinburgh's port neighborhood has transformed over the past decade. It's got a grittier, more authentic vibe than the tourist center, with excellent restaurants (The Kitchin is here, for a splurge night when you've got a babysitter), a waterfront for walking, and the Royal Yacht Britannia, which my nautically-obsessed son declared "the best thing in Scotland."

Leith is about 20 minutes by bus or tram to the center. Home exchange properties tend to be more modern here—converted warehouses, new-build apartments with actual closet space.

What Edinburgh Home Exchange Properties Actually Look Like

One thing I love about home exchange versus vacation rentals: you're staying in someone's actual home, not a property optimized for Airbnb turnover.

The good stuff? Real kitchens with actual cooking equipment (not just a microwave and two pans). Bookshelves with books. Kids' toys, often. Local recommendations written by someone who lives there. A washing machine—crucial for families, and something Edinburgh hotels rarely offer without £5/item laundry fees.

The potentially challenging stuff? Someone else's aesthetic. Their family photos on the walls. A mattress that might not be what you're used to. Kids' rooms decorated for a different age than yours.

I've found that communication before the exchange solves most issues. When we swapped with a family in Morningside, I asked if they had a high chair (yes), whether their garden was fenced (yes), and if they'd mind us bringing our own pillows (not at all). They asked similar questions about our San Francisco apartment.

Interior of an Edinburgh tenement flat kitchen with a classic AGA stove, copper pots hanging, a chil

The review system on platforms like SwappaHome helps here too. Before committing to an exchange, you can see what other families have said about the property. I specifically look for reviews mentioning kids—they'll tell you if the stairs are steep, if there's street noise at night, if the garden is actually usable.

A Sample Week: Edinburgh with Kids via Home Exchange

Let me walk you through what a week actually looks like. This is based on our most recent trip, staying in Morningside.

Day 1 (Saturday): Arrive, recover. We landed at Edinburgh Airport around 10 AM, took the tram to Haymarket (£7.50 per adult, kids under 5 free), then a bus to Morningside. Our exchange family had left the keys with a neighbor—standard practice. We spent the afternoon unpacking, exploring the neighborhood, finding the nearest grocery store (Waitrose on Morningside Road), and making a simple dinner. Kids were in bed by 7 PM, and my husband and I sat in the garden until dark, which in Scottish summer is around 10 PM.

Day 2 (Sunday): Stockbridge Market and Botanic Garden. A lazy start, then bus to Stockbridge for the Sunday market. Kids ate their weight in samples. We walked to the Royal Botanic Garden afterward—the kids ran wild on the lawn while we collapsed on a bench. Dinner at home: pasta with sauce from the market.

Day 3 (Monday): Edinburgh Castle and Royal Mile. Early start to beat crowds. Edinburgh Castle opens at 9:30 AM—we were there at 9:15 and first in line. The castle is genuinely impressive for kids: cannons, dungeons, crown jewels. We spent about 3 hours, then walked down the Royal Mile, stopping at the Museum of Childhood (free, small, perfect for a 30-minute break). Lunch at Oink on Victoria Street (pulled pork rolls, about £6 each). Afternoon at the Meadows playground. Dinner at home.

Day 4 (Tuesday): National Museum of Scotland. This museum is a marvel. Free, enormous, and something for every age. My 5-year-old was obsessed with the natural history section (full-size whale skeleton). My 10-year-old spent an hour in the technology galleries. There's a rooftop terrace with views across the city. We stayed for 5 hours and barely scratched the surface. Fish and chips from a chippy on the way home.

Day 5 (Wednesday): Arthur's Seat hike. This is the big one. Arthur's Seat is an ancient volcano in the middle of the city, and climbing it is a rite of passage. We started from Holyrood Park, took the easier path (not the cliff route—not with kids), and reached the summit in about an hour. The views are extraordinary. My kids were exhausted and triumphant. We celebrated with ice cream from Mary's Milk Bar in Grassmarket (best ice cream in Edinburgh, I will die on this hill).

Family at the summit of Arthurs Seat, Edinburgh skyline and Firth of Forth visible in background, ch

Day 6 (Thursday): Edinburgh Zoo. Yes, it's expensive (about £90 for a family of four). Yes, it's worth it. The penguin parade alone—where penguins waddle freely past visitors—is worth the trip. We spent a full day here. Packed sandwiches to save money on lunch.

Day 7 (Friday): Beach day at Portobello. Edinburgh has a beach! Portobello is a 20-minute bus ride from the center, and it's a proper British seaside town with an arcade, fish and chip shops, and a long sandy beach. The water is freezing, but my kids didn't care. We rented a beach hut for the day (about £25) and stayed until sunset.

Day 8 (Saturday): Day trip to North Berwick. Okay, this is cheating because it's outside Edinburgh, but it's only 30 minutes by train and it's spectacular. The Scottish Seabird Centre is there, plus a ruined castle on a cliff, and what might be the best fish and chips in Scotland at the Lobster Shack. We took the train from Waverley Station (about £8 return per adult).

You see the pattern? Having a home base with a kitchen meant we could do one "big" activity per day, then decompress. No pressure to maximize every moment because we weren't paying £300/night for a hotel room we felt guilty about not using.

The Practical Magic of Home Exchange Kitchens

I keep mentioning the kitchen, and I want to explain why this matters so much for families.

Edinburgh restaurants are wonderful. The seafood is incredible. The pub food is hearty and satisfying. But restaurant dining with kids is expensive (a family dinner at a mid-range restaurant runs £80-120/$100-150), stressful (waiting for food with hungry children is a special kind of torture), limited (kids' menus in the UK are often just chicken nuggets and chips), and time-consuming (90 minutes minimum, when you could be exploring).

With a home exchange kitchen, our typical day looked like breakfast made in 10 minutes—cereal, toast, eggs, whatever the kids actually want to eat. Lunch was a picnic assembled from grocery store supplies, eaten in a park. Dinner was simple pasta, or fish from the fishmonger, or sometimes just cheese and bread if everyone's exhausted.

We'd do one or two "nice" restaurant meals per week as a treat, rather than three per day out of necessity. The savings were significant—probably £150-200 per day compared to eating out for every meal.

But beyond money, it was the rhythm of it. Making breakfast in a real kitchen, with real coffee, while the kids watched TV in the living room—it felt like life, not vacation. And weirdly, that made the vacation better.

What to Know Before Your First Edinburgh Home Exchange

Some practical considerations specific to Edinburgh.

Weather: It will rain. Probably every day. This isn't pessimism; it's Scottish reality. A home exchange means you have somewhere to retreat when the skies open, somewhere to dry wet clothes, somewhere to wait out a storm with a cup of tea.

Stairs: Edinburgh is vertical. The Old Town is built on a volcanic ridge. Even the New Town has steep hills. Most tenement flats (the classic Edinburgh housing) are walk-ups, often on the 2nd or 3rd floor. If you have mobility issues or a heavy stroller, ask about this before confirming an exchange.

Festival Season: August in Edinburgh is the Fringe Festival, and the city transforms. It's magical, chaotic, and extremely crowded. Home exchanges during August are highly competitive—start looking 6+ months in advance. But if you can secure one, you'll have a home base in a city that desperately needs one.

Parking: If you're renting a car (not necessary for Edinburgh itself, but useful for day trips), ask if the home exchange includes parking. Street parking in central Edinburgh is limited and expensive. Many flats have no parking at all.

Setting Up Your Home Exchange Profile for Family Swaps

If you're new to home exchange and want to attract families for Edinburgh swaps (or anywhere), here's what I've learned.

Be specific about kid-friendliness. Don't just say "family-friendly." List what you have: high chair, crib, stroller, baby gate, toys for specific ages, a fenced yard, a park within walking distance. Families searching for exchanges will filter for these details.

Show the kids' spaces. If you have a kids' room, photograph it. Show the bunk beds, the toy corner, the books. This is what family exchangers are looking for.

Mention your own family situation. In your profile, note that you're a family with kids. This helps other families find you and suggests you understand the needs of traveling with children.

Be honest about limitations. Steep stairs? Busy street? No yard? Say so. Families will appreciate the honesty and can decide if it works for them.

On SwappaHome, you can search specifically for family-friendly properties and filter by features like gardens, multiple bedrooms, and kid equipment. I always start my search there.

The Trust Factor: Safety in Family Home Exchange

I'll address the elephant in the room: you're letting strangers stay in your home, where your children sleep. And you're staying in strangers' homes with your children. Is this safe?

I've thought about this a lot over seven years of home exchanging. Here's my honest take.

The home exchange community is self-selecting. People who do this tend to be homeowners (invested in property care), experienced travelers (understanding of cultural exchange), and often families themselves (empathetic to family needs). The review system creates accountability—one bad review can tank your exchange prospects.

SwappaHome and similar platforms are connection services, not guarantors. They verify identities and facilitate communication, but they don't provide insurance or handle disputes. You're responsible for your own arrangements.

What I do: read all reviews carefully, especially recent ones. Have a video call with exchange partners before confirming. Ask for references if someone is new to the platform. Get my own travel insurance that covers accommodation issues. Trust my gut—if something feels off, I don't proceed.

In 40+ exchanges, I've never had a serious problem. A few minor issues—a broken glass, a stain on a rug—were resolved with honest communication. The families I've exchanged with have become friends; we've done repeat swaps and stayed in touch.

Why Edinburgh Specifically Works for Family Home Exchange

I've done home exchanges in many cities with my kids, and Edinburgh stands out for a few reasons.

The housing stock: Edinburgh's tenement flats are spacious by European standards—high ceilings, multiple bedrooms, often with gardens or access to shared green spaces. You're not cramming into a tiny Parisian apartment.

The family culture: Scotland is genuinely family-friendly. Kids are welcome in pubs (until a certain hour), restaurants expect children, and attractions are designed with families in mind. You won't feel like you're imposing.

The walkability: Despite the hills, Edinburgh is a walkable city. Most attractions are within walking distance of central neighborhoods, which means you don't need a car and can explore on foot.

The free stuff: The National Museum, the National Galleries, the Botanic Garden, the Meadows, the beaches—so much of Edinburgh is free. This matters when you've already saved on accommodation and want to stretch your budget further.

The weather excuse: When it rains (and it will), you have permission to stay home. Make tea, play board games, let the kids watch Scottish TV. A home exchange gives you that option without guilt.

Getting Started: Your First Edinburgh Family Home Exchange

If I've convinced you to try this, here's how to start.

Create a profile on SwappaHome (or your platform of choice). New members get 10 free credits—enough for a 10-night Edinburgh trip. List your home with detailed descriptions and photos, emphasizing family-friendly features. Search Edinburgh listings filtered for families, multiple bedrooms, and your desired neighborhood. Send personalized messages to potential exchange partners—mention your kids' ages, your travel dates, and why you're interested in their specific home. Be flexible on dates if possible; Edinburgh home exchanges are competitive, especially in summer, and flexibility increases your chances. Plan ahead: for summer travel, start looking in January or February. For Festival season, even earlier.

The first exchange is the hardest—you're building your reputation from scratch. Consider offering your home to guests first to earn credits and reviews, then use those credits for your Edinburgh trip.

The Moment That Sold Me Forever

I want to end with a specific memory.

It was our second Edinburgh home exchange, a flat in Stockbridge. We'd been in the city for five days. My daughter, then six, had made friends with the neighbor's cat, who visited our garden every afternoon. My son had discovered a used bookshop on the corner and was working his way through a stack of Roald Dahl paperbacks.

On this particular evening, we'd had a big day—Arthur's Seat in the morning, the castle in the afternoon. Everyone was tired. I made spaghetti bolognese in the kitchen while my husband gave the kids a bath. Through the window, I could see the sun setting over the Edinburgh rooftops, turning the stone buildings gold.

When I called everyone for dinner, my daughter came running in, still damp from the bath, and said: "This feels like our house."

And it did. For that week, it was.

That's what home exchange gives you that no hotel can: not just a place to sleep, but a place to live. A neighborhood to belong to, however briefly. A kitchen to cook in, a garden to sit in, a life to borrow.

For families especially—for whom travel can so easily become an expensive, exhausting slog—this is transformative. It's not just about saving money, though you will. It's about traveling in a way that actually works for how families function.

Edinburgh is waiting. Find a home there. Make it yours for a week.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is home exchange in Edinburgh safe for families with young children?

Home exchange in Edinburgh is generally very safe for families. The platform's review system creates accountability, and the community tends to be trustworthy homeowners. SwappaHome connects members but doesn't provide insurance—I recommend getting your own travel insurance and having a video call with exchange partners before confirming. Trust your instincts and read reviews carefully.

How much can families save with home exchange in Edinburgh versus hotels?

Families can save $3,000-5,000 on a two-week Edinburgh trip through home exchange. Family hotel rooms cost £200-300/night ($255-380), while home exchange costs just 1 credit per night. Add kitchen savings of £100-150/day versus restaurant meals, and total savings often exceed $4,000 for a two-week family vacation.

What Edinburgh neighborhoods are best for home exchange with kids?

Stockbridge and Morningside are ideal for families doing home exchange in Edinburgh. Stockbridge offers village charm, the Water of Leith walkway, and proximity to the Botanic Garden. Morningside provides larger properties, easy access to the Meadows park, and a family-oriented atmosphere. Both are 15-25 minutes from central attractions.

When should I book a home exchange in Edinburgh for summer travel?

Start searching for Edinburgh home exchanges 4-6 months before summer travel dates. For August Festival season, begin looking in January or February—competition is intense. Being flexible with exact dates increases your chances of finding the perfect family-friendly property in your preferred neighborhood.

Do Edinburgh home exchange properties have baby equipment?

Many Edinburgh home exchange properties offer baby and toddler equipment, but you must ask. Before confirming, message your exchange partners about specific needs: high chairs, cribs, strollers, baby gates, and age-appropriate toys. Family exchangers often have this equipment and are happy to leave it accessible for visiting families.